Summer is dwindling away and I am so excited for all the amazing fall produce that’s coming our way. I got some insanely good Wildfire Gala apples in my farm share (fun fact: these are one of the first apple varieties of the season). A little apple crisp à la Bittman combined with a drop in temperature was just what I needed to get me in the mood for autumn.

But before we kick summer to the curb, it’s time for a last hurrah with gorgeous late-season tomatoes. Those tomatoes have been so good to us all summer - sliced and salted with some olive oil (or not); chunkily chopped on bread with lettuce and mayo, maybe some bacon, because bacon; diced with garlic and basil for easy peasy bruschetta… I might just shed a tear.

One of the simplest ways to enjoy fresh tomatoes is to make a straightforward tomato sauce. This summer, I’ve been loving a raw tomato sauce: olive oil lazily infused with some smashed garlic cloves and basil all day, then, a couple of hours before eating, mix in tomatoes that have been chopped and salted. Drop in some pasta and maybe some fresh mozzarella and you have a meal. Sometimes, though, I want something a little smoother and, frankly, a little more freezable. (I’ve never canned anything in my life - the idea that I would do it wrong, contaminate my family’s food, and make everyone sick haunts me - but it might just be time to start looking into it because my freezer is full to bursting.)

This tomato sauce is a little more complex, but it doesn’t detract from the tomatoes on bit - and it’s well worth it. It only takes about 15 minutes of hands on time, and then it can simmer away unattended for quite a while if you’d like to really develop the flavor. I don’t mind keeping it short and sweet - I rarely have a lengthy prep time before blood sugar levels drop dangerously in my household - and this sauce doesn’t suffer from having a bit of fresh tomatoeyness about it.

I’m always pretty excited about eating a giant bowl of pasta, and cheese is definitely a factor in that. I maybe have gone a little overboard with two cheeses in the sauce and one on top, but go big or go home. I used both Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano in the sauce as almost a seasoning. These are two delicious, highly regulated Italian cheeses, made from cow and sheep’s milk respectively. From its nubby size, you may detect that I use Parmigiano quite a bit - it’s nutty and it adds umami to whatever it touches. Pecorino is a bit more unique, salty with a tang from the sheep’s milk. Finally, to get creaminess and that cheese pull that will follow you into your dreams, top steaming pasta with fresh mozzarella.

You can use less cheese if you really want. And would this still be very good with a high quality canned tomato? Absolutely, and I don’t doubt I’ll be doing that in a couple of months. Similarly, you could substitute dried oregano and basil for the fresh, keeping in mind that dried herbs have a much more concentrated flavor (roughly substitute 1 tsp dried herb per 1 tbsp fresh herb). Make this your own: add more garlic; change up the herbs; leave your sauce chunky. Personally, I recommend all the cheese.

Fresh Tomato Sauce

Servings: 4-6 || Time: 45 mins || Inspiration: Summer tomatoes

• Olive oil - 2 tbsp

• Onion - 1 medium, diced

• Garlic - 2 cloves, minced or crushed

• Fresh tomatoes - 1.5 lbs, roughly chopped

• Fresh herbs, such as oregano, thyme, basil - 1 tbsp each, chopped

• Parmigiano-reggiano - 2 tbsp, grated

• Pecorino-romano - 2 tbsp, grated

Heat olive oil in a medium-large skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until it begins to turn translucent. Add garlic. Once garlic has turned golden, but before it browns, add the tomatoes and fresh herbs of your choice. Season with salt and pepper.

Turn heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes have begun to break down and release their juices.

Bring to a low simmer and cook 15 minutes more, until tomatoes are very broken up and a sauce begins to form. You may continue to cook past this point, for 30 minutes more - if at any point the pan looks dry, add water to prevent burning or sticking. When sauce is cooked to your liking, stir in the cheeses.

For a smoother sauce, pass through a food mill (I used the coarsest grind) or blend in a food processor.

Toss sauce with your favorite pasta and top with chopped or torn mozzarella. Or freeze to lock away a little bit of summer.